These are the symbols we are currently using throughout our pages to help make your decisions easier when choosing which plants or seeds will meet your needs. […]
When are your watermelons ripe? Once they are detached from the vine watermelons will not continue to ripen. You only get one chance to do this right! 1-The curly tendril on the main vine closest to the fruit, will turn brown. 2-The ground spot will turn from white to yellow. 3-The blossom end will soften. 4-The green color becomes dull and on striped melons, the color between the stripes gets darker.
If you are new to gardening, don’t let these words intimidate you! As you grow and read more and get experience, these words will be integrated seamlessly into your own vocabulary. If you’ve been teetering getting started, let me tell you something: experience is your best teacher Good luck! Failure teaches you and success encourages you! Acidic: A soil, compost, or liquid with a pH between 0 and 7.0 (on a scale of 0.0-14.0). Often referred to as “sour” soil by gardeners. Aeration: Any method of loosening soil or compost to allow air to circulate. Alkaline: A soil with a pH between 7.0 and 14 (on a scale of 0.0-14.0). Often referred to as “sweet” soil by gardeners. Annual: A plant that blooms, produces seed, and dies in one year. Beneficial Insect: An insect that benefits your garden by eating or laying its eggs in other insects, thereby controlling their population. Biennial: A plant that completes its full life-cycle in two growing seasons. It produces leaves in the first and flowers in the second. Biological Pest Control: Using living organisms such as beneficial insects or parasites to destroy garden pests. Bolt: A term used to describe a plant that has gone to seed prematurely. Bone Meal: Finely ground fertilizer composed of white or light gray bone that adds phosphorus to the soil. [...]
Open-pollination is when pollination occurs by insect, bird, wind, humans, or other natural mechanisms. Because there are no restrictions on the flow of pollen between individuals, open-pollinated plants are more genetically diverse. This can cause a greater amount of variation within plant populations, which allows plants to slowly adapt to local growing conditions and climate year-to-year. As long as pollen is not shared between different varieties within the same species, then the seed produced will remain true-to-type year after year. An heirloom variety is a plant variety that has a history of being passed down within a family or community, similar to the generational sharing of heirloom jewelry or furniture. An heirloom variety must be open-pollinated, but not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms. While some companies create heirloom labels based on dates (such as a variety that is more than 50 years old), Seed Savers Exchange identifies heirlooms by verifying and documenting the generational history of preserving and passing on the seed. Hybridization is a controlled method of pollination in which the pollen of two different species or varieties is crossed by human intervention. Hybridization can occur naturally through random crosses, but commercially available hybridized seed, often labeled as F1, is deliberately created to breed a desired trait. The first generation of a hybridized plant cross also tends to grow better and [...]
Talking about container gardening and not in ground, or raised beds....totally different! * Early Blight, Late Blight, Septoria Leaf pot are fungal based problems. They re spread by airborne spores that can originate on your own property or come from miles away. To treat them requires a fungicide applied to your plants, copper spray, Plant Wash Plus or Natria are a few options. If you have had these, then the odds are they going to reappear year after year and a proactive stance should be taken before they get a hold. Once a plant is attacked by these, all one can do is to try to control it to save the plant. For the mix in affected plants, it can be re-used by applying the fungicide to the top of the mix and work it down into the top 2 inches of the mix...and rinse the container. grow bag in a mild bleach solution and then rinse well and allow to dry. * Common Virus diseases come from pests spreading from infected plant to healthy plants. Purchase only healthy seedlings, or start your own in fresh uncontaminated mix. Viruses are carried over from infected plants in other parts of the property also and can over winter in ground soil, or even in mix. Clean out infected plants in other areas of property, [...]
TOMATO PLANT PROBLEMS AND HOW TO FIX If you had any issues with your Tomatoes during this last season, or having any problems now, this info and chart might be helpful. It is important to be able to identify and treat the common Tomato plant ailments that might crop up. 1- BLOSSOM END ROT: This is one of the most common ailments, and you can tell if your plants have it by looking at where Tomatoes attach to vine. If the attachment appears brown and leathery between the size of a dime and quarter, than that Tomato has Blossom End Rot. TO TREAT: You will have to take all the Tomatoes off the plants that are affected, and dispose of them. If you don’t, it will spread and to all of them. Great product to use when transplanting is “Talk of Tomatoes” - helps prevent this. 2- BLIGHT: There are 3 stages of Blight. Early Blight is black and grey spots on the leaves when Tomatoes are young. Southern Blight is black and grey spots by stem and roots of the tomato plant. Late Blight gets out of hand, and is black and grey spots throughout the leaves, vines, and tomatoes. Use a fungicide such as Natria to help prevent. TO TREAT: The easiest way is to treat it in its’ early [...]
Fertilizing Biweekly is one of the most important things you can do to help ensure a successful gardening season! And our sprayer makes it easier than ever! Add 3 scoops of any of our fertilizers to the sprayer. Add 6 scoops liquid seaweed and fill with water to top line of sprayer. Add 1 scoop wetting agent. Attach hose and spray till empty. You've fertilized! Watering Can Instructions
"DO NOT" soak perennial roots before planting! -Seperate cedar packing material from roots and discard, it should not go into planting hole. -If you receive your perennials before you are ready to plant, store in refrigerator or a cool spot at approx. 1 C (34 F) until you can plant. Or pot them up right away and transplant into garden once ground is ready. -Soil should be well worked and free of weeds. -When planting, the crown should be set 1 cm (1/2 in) deep and well watered. Seedling plugs (plastic pots), should be transplanted covering plants with 1 cm (1/2 in) of soil also. -T & T Rose & Strawberry fertilizer (10-52-17) and Sky Rocket or Bone Meal is ideal for perennials. -Cover perennials with straw or leaves for extra winter protection. -As most perennial gardens are planted randomly, spacing is not rigid, but when unsure of distance between plants space them by looking at the height of that particular plant and habit. Usually you are looking at spacing plants at least 30 cm (12 in) apart for shorter plants to 90 cm (3 ft) apart for the taller.
In this video, you learn how to be successful in watering your newly planted tree.
Planting a tree is new to many folks and can be challenging to most. One of the biggest problems we hear about at T&T Seeds is the initial planting issue. How big should the hole be? What to put in the hole, how do I water it in? We created a slick little video that should make it much easier for everyone to follow.